Felting Needles Guide
Here at Blooming Felt we sell a range of felting needles suitable for creating different effects when needle felting.
If you've never needle felted before, or need some advice on which needles to use when needle felting, then you're in the right place.
Felting needles are basically long, thin needles (with no eye). Along the shaft (towards the point of the needle) are tiny little barbs. The action of "stabbing" the fibres with the needle causes the barbs to entangle the fibres, thereby felting them together.
All of our needle felting needles are made for use in industrial felting machines. They are made very well and if used correctly, won't break. The correct way to use a felting needle is to insert it straight in and straight out. Don't wiggle it about or insert it at a strange angle as the tips of the needles are extremely narrow and using them incorrectly will cause them to break. Unfortunately, broken needles are a bit of an occupational hazard for people new to needle felting and it's quite common to break a few needles on your first project. But, as with everything, practice makes perfect and once you have perfected the art of needle felting, will find you very rarely (if ever) break a needle.
Beware of using cheap needles which have been imported from the Far East - they will definitely break and even seasoned needle felters will find themselves with broken needles, purely because they are not particularly well made.
All of our felting needles are given a number and a shape. The needles we supply follow the universal gauge system, meaning they are the same wherever you might purchase them in the world. We don't use coloured handles or our own numbering system as this becomes very confusing for customers when wishing to purchase from different suppliers.
Below is a list of the various needle felting needles that are available. We supply a number of the most popular needles and are happy to add additional gauges if there is enough demand for them.
The higher the number gauge, the finer the needle. The lower the number, the thicker the needle. Thicker felting needles tend to leave bigger holes, but these will close up over time. We recommend a 36 gauge triangular needle as a general felting needle and find this is a good needle for first-time needle felters.
All of our felting needles fit in our single and 4-needle felting tools and will also fit most other hand-held needle felting tools.
|Gauge ||Shape ||Description |
|32 ||Reverse Barb Triangle || |
The barbs point backwards which has the effect of raising the surface as it felts on the upstroke. Good for a textured surface on 3D animals made from coarser wools
|36 ||Triangle || |
A very good general purse needle that works well for most fibres. The most used needle of all the types and recommended for beginners
|36 ||Crown ||Barbs at the very crown of the needle. Mostly used for rooting dolls hair |
|38 ||Star ||This has 4 working edges. It can be faster to work with this needle. It is also a finer needle so is good for finer wools |
|38 ||Crown ||Similar to the 36 Crown needle - being a finer needle it produces smaller holes |
|38 ||Twisted/Spiral ||A finer triangle needle with a twisted point. It can be easier to insert and may make smaller holes in some fibres |
|40 ||Triangle ||A fine triangle shape needle often used for making 3D objects |
|40 ||Reverse Barb Triangle ||The barbs point backwards which has the effect of raising the surface as it felts on the upstroke. Good for a textured surface on 3D animals and to use for small delicate items made from finer wools |
|40 ||Twisted/Spiral ||A finer triangle needle with a twisted point. It can be easier to insert and may make smaller holes in some fibres |
|43 ||Triangle ||A very fine needle for delicate work - great for creating details on faces |